Get the FAQ’s
Have a question? You're not alone. In fact someone might have asked already, and if they have it's probably in our FAQ's and you can get an answer right now.
The FAQ's have rather long answers - so be warned settle in with a cup of coffee and a packet of Tim Tams (smile).
Where is your application form?
There isn't one unless I have a litter available.
Once a litter is born I will announce the litter via the puppies page on the website. On the individual litter's page I list the date that I will seek expressions of interest via an application form (typically I seek applications between 2-6 weeks of age and the link to the applications form is only active during that period), I will also state the allocation dates and going home dates.
Life is too short to accept applications for puppies I don't have, puppies that may not suit your family circumstances and for preferences I may not be able to satisfy (smile).
Once a litter is born I will announce the litter via the puppies page on the website. On the individual litter's page I list the date that I will seek expressions of interest via an application form (typically I seek applications between 2-6 weeks of age and the link to the applications form is only active during that period), I will also state the allocation dates and going home dates.
Life is too short to accept applications for puppies I don't have, puppies that may not suit your family circumstances and for preferences I may not be able to satisfy (smile).
Price?
Puppy Prices are
$4,000 (GST Inclusive) on a spay/neuter agreement through SpaySecure (Puppy may leave at 8 weeks onwards). More details on SpaySecure may be found here
I charge the same regardless of colour, whether the puppy is male or female, wool coat or fleece coat.
Very occasionally I will discount for cosmetic issues such as bite or because a coat type is not as ideal as I would have liked.
Price includes 6 week vaccinations, 2, 4, 6 and 8 week worming, microchipping.
Due to Qantas now requiring puppies to be 12 weeks of age before flying now mean we will only fly to areas serviced by Virgin.)
$4,000 (GST Inclusive) on a spay/neuter agreement through SpaySecure (Puppy may leave at 8 weeks onwards). More details on SpaySecure may be found here
I charge the same regardless of colour, whether the puppy is male or female, wool coat or fleece coat.
Very occasionally I will discount for cosmetic issues such as bite or because a coat type is not as ideal as I would have liked.
Price includes 6 week vaccinations, 2, 4, 6 and 8 week worming, microchipping.
Due to Qantas now requiring puppies to be 12 weeks of age before flying now mean we will only fly to areas serviced by Virgin.)
Vaccinations, de-sexing, microchips and guarantee?
All puppies have had age appropriate worming, vaccinations and are vet checked and microchipped before they leave for their new families.
You will need to supply us with your contact details and those of a second contact so that the microchip may be recorded in your name before we will release the puppy into your care.
Puppies come with a limited 2 year health agreement (see here for details). I don’t guarantee that your puppy will not inherit one of the 500 odd genetic disorders known to affect them (for the record people have 10,000), or that they will never suffer from one of the many conditions caused by factors other than genetics. I do however try my hardest to avoid problems as I almost always keep a puppy from the litter as well (smile).
You will need to supply us with your contact details and those of a second contact so that the microchip may be recorded in your name before we will release the puppy into your care.
Puppies come with a limited 2 year health agreement (see here for details). I don’t guarantee that your puppy will not inherit one of the 500 odd genetic disorders known to affect them (for the record people have 10,000), or that they will never suffer from one of the many conditions caused by factors other than genetics. I do however try my hardest to avoid problems as I almost always keep a puppy from the litter as well (smile).
Wait Lists?
We don’t have a wait list like most breeders, we don’t take deposits unless we have a litter, nor do we guarantee you a puppy even after you have told us you would like one and we might have one available.
At the outset let me point out that I do not allocate puppies until they are at least six weeks of age because it takes this long to decide upon which puppy or puppies to retain to improve the lines (it is after all why the litter was breed in the first place). It takes that long for me to get a feel for their temperaments so that I can place puppies with suitable families. That six week period also helps ensure you are certain that the timing is right for a puppy and then provides a further two weeks to start getting organised before puppy can leave at 8 weeks.
So how does it work?
Keep an eye on my website - I update it regularly with details of planned litters and anticipated due dates.
When a litter is born I will again update the website to reflect this and provide details of the litter. Please check that their “8 weeks go home date” suits your family and that their approximate size, colour and sexes are what you are dreaming of.
At approximately 2-4 weeks of age, a link to the application form will be placed upon the puppies page inviting expressions of interest.
When filling in the application form please don’t tell us what you think we want to hear. I don’t mind if you have a child under 5 years of age, provided you know that it is three times the work to undo all those good training tips your child teaches the puppy when you are not looking - Both my own and previous families experiences over the years would strongly suggest to wait until your child is older.
Many people think they want a super intelligent dog and often say they have plans to win the Royal Show at obedience, but in all honesty few people could really handle the dogs with the extremely high prey drives that leading dog trainers seek for high level competition or service work. You really do yourself and the puppy no favour by misleading us. Our view is that successfully raising a puppy is more about the breeders taking the time to understand your expectations, help you choose the puppy right for your circumstances and educate you. Your willingness to listen, seek out and act upon advice certainly goes a long way too.
I will reply letting you know that I have received your details and provide further information if you requested it.
At the six week allocation day(s), all puppies will have been microchipped, checked for bites (teeth), joints, heart murmurs etc. I will also now be more confident as to their likely temperaments, potential adult sizes, coat types and expected colours (silvering/parchment tends to start showing at around 6 weeks of age). I will have now decided upon which puppy(s) to retain to further my lines and can begin the process of contacting families - My main priority is to place each puppy with the family that will most suit the puppy so the more open you are in your preferences the more likely you are to receive a puppy. Ie I give more weight in my allocations to temperament/activity levels and what family would suit the puppy than to your preferences as to colour and sex.
Once all puppies in the litter have been placed usually via a phone call from me, I will then send out an email to unsuccessful applicants.
Please do not be offended if your were not offered a puppy from a particular litter that you had your heart set upon, we typically have more applications than puppies or did not feel that they would be suited to you. We have both yours and the puppies best interest at heart and often you are best served by waiting for the right puppy to come along in a subsequent litter from either ourselves or another breeder.
Once puppies are allocated at six weeks, we will get you started off on the right foot with some light reading (he he he) to help you prepare for your new addition and also avoid many of the common pitfalls that both new and experienced families alike have in raising a dog.
You will be contacted regularly with requests for microchip information, updates on the puppies, health guarantees, spay/neuter agreement, initial vaccination certificates and copies of parents original health reports for your records.
This list is wiped at the end of each litter and the process starts again. To be placed upon it for a subsequent litter, you will need to repeat the steps above – Sorry (smile)
At the outset let me point out that I do not allocate puppies until they are at least six weeks of age because it takes this long to decide upon which puppy or puppies to retain to improve the lines (it is after all why the litter was breed in the first place). It takes that long for me to get a feel for their temperaments so that I can place puppies with suitable families. That six week period also helps ensure you are certain that the timing is right for a puppy and then provides a further two weeks to start getting organised before puppy can leave at 8 weeks.
So how does it work?
Keep an eye on my website - I update it regularly with details of planned litters and anticipated due dates.
When a litter is born I will again update the website to reflect this and provide details of the litter. Please check that their “8 weeks go home date” suits your family and that their approximate size, colour and sexes are what you are dreaming of.
At approximately 2-4 weeks of age, a link to the application form will be placed upon the puppies page inviting expressions of interest.
When filling in the application form please don’t tell us what you think we want to hear. I don’t mind if you have a child under 5 years of age, provided you know that it is three times the work to undo all those good training tips your child teaches the puppy when you are not looking - Both my own and previous families experiences over the years would strongly suggest to wait until your child is older.
Many people think they want a super intelligent dog and often say they have plans to win the Royal Show at obedience, but in all honesty few people could really handle the dogs with the extremely high prey drives that leading dog trainers seek for high level competition or service work. You really do yourself and the puppy no favour by misleading us. Our view is that successfully raising a puppy is more about the breeders taking the time to understand your expectations, help you choose the puppy right for your circumstances and educate you. Your willingness to listen, seek out and act upon advice certainly goes a long way too.
I will reply letting you know that I have received your details and provide further information if you requested it.
At the six week allocation day(s), all puppies will have been microchipped, checked for bites (teeth), joints, heart murmurs etc. I will also now be more confident as to their likely temperaments, potential adult sizes, coat types and expected colours (silvering/parchment tends to start showing at around 6 weeks of age). I will have now decided upon which puppy(s) to retain to further my lines and can begin the process of contacting families - My main priority is to place each puppy with the family that will most suit the puppy so the more open you are in your preferences the more likely you are to receive a puppy. Ie I give more weight in my allocations to temperament/activity levels and what family would suit the puppy than to your preferences as to colour and sex.
Once all puppies in the litter have been placed usually via a phone call from me, I will then send out an email to unsuccessful applicants.
Please do not be offended if your were not offered a puppy from a particular litter that you had your heart set upon, we typically have more applications than puppies or did not feel that they would be suited to you. We have both yours and the puppies best interest at heart and often you are best served by waiting for the right puppy to come along in a subsequent litter from either ourselves or another breeder.
Once puppies are allocated at six weeks, we will get you started off on the right foot with some light reading (he he he) to help you prepare for your new addition and also avoid many of the common pitfalls that both new and experienced families alike have in raising a dog.
You will be contacted regularly with requests for microchip information, updates on the puppies, health guarantees, spay/neuter agreement, initial vaccination certificates and copies of parents original health reports for your records.
This list is wiped at the end of each litter and the process starts again. To be placed upon it for a subsequent litter, you will need to repeat the steps above – Sorry (smile)
Parent Screening?
Before any dog is placed into my breeding programme the following has been carried out. Copies of the originals are provided to families with their puppies for their records.
Hip and elbow x-ray’s are taken to screen for dysplasia (it is the best tool available to breeders to ‘lessen’ the likelihood of progeny acquiring the condition when combined with pedigree research) – results are on the website.
Blood samples are analysed to screen for potential problems.
DNA profiled for proof of parentage.
DNA tested for a multitude of genetic disorders. What you see on the website (listed for each parent) are only the results of problems known or suspected to affect Australian Labradoodles, more tests are conducted behind the scenes and new tests are regularly added.
Finally I have to like the dogs themselves and believe that when mated accordingly they will improve my lines.
Hip and elbow x-ray’s are taken to screen for dysplasia (it is the best tool available to breeders to ‘lessen’ the likelihood of progeny acquiring the condition when combined with pedigree research) – results are on the website.
Blood samples are analysed to screen for potential problems.
DNA profiled for proof of parentage.
DNA tested for a multitude of genetic disorders. What you see on the website (listed for each parent) are only the results of problems known or suspected to affect Australian Labradoodles, more tests are conducted behind the scenes and new tests are regularly added.
Finally I have to like the dogs themselves and believe that when mated accordingly they will improve my lines.
Do we have to de-sex?
Yes - All companion puppies leaving my care go out on a spay/neuter contract which is managed and enforced by SpaySecure (see how it works here)
Should you be interested in breeding then simply let me know and I may be able to steer you in the right direction. It would be very rare that I would sell a breeding prospect as I tend to keep them myself if they are that good (smile).
Should you be interested in breeding then simply let me know and I may be able to steer you in the right direction. It would be very rare that I would sell a breeding prospect as I tend to keep them myself if they are that good (smile).
Allergies?
I don’t sell my dogs as allergy free. Their really is no such thing as an allergy free dog of any breed when you learn a bit more about what people are allergic too. For instance some people react to the dogs saliva, others to the dander (dead skin that wears off) in their coat, still others to shedding hair. Some people develop reactions after being exposed to a dog over a long period of time once the allergen levels have built up in their home.
However that said anecdotal evidence is that Labradoodles seem less likely to trigger allergies in mild sufferers than hair type dogs.
If you or your family suffer from severe allergic reactions I suggest you spend as much time with Labradoodles as you can prior to deciding to purchase one and in particular spend time with the puppy you hope to have as your companion (as puppies vary from litter to litter and even within litters).
Just to reiterate – there is no scientific laboratory proof that I am aware of that says the Australian Labradoodle (nor any dog that I am aware of) is “Hypoallergenic”.
However that said anecdotal evidence is that Labradoodles seem less likely to trigger allergies in mild sufferers than hair type dogs.
If you or your family suffer from severe allergic reactions I suggest you spend as much time with Labradoodles as you can prior to deciding to purchase one and in particular spend time with the puppy you hope to have as your companion (as puppies vary from litter to litter and even within litters).
Just to reiterate – there is no scientific laboratory proof that I am aware of that says the Australian Labradoodle (nor any dog that I am aware of) is “Hypoallergenic”.
Boy vs Girl
In general I prefer the squarer head type and overall stockiness of the males (I find many breeders do), I also find them to be cuddlier and wanting to be with you somewhat more. Once puppies have been de-sexed under your seperate spay/neuter agreement there is less difference in their temperaments and boys generally wont develop the habit of marking their territory and roaming in search of a mate, and the girls no longer have six monthly cycles. So it really comes down to a personal choice.
Temperament and training?
Labradoodles have a lovely soft and caring temperament, they also possess the soft gun dog mouth as their parent breeds (Lab, Poodle and Cocker-Spaniel) are gundogs/retrievers. This is ideal around children (they gently take things from your hand). They are devoted and really thrive on being around people.
The proposed breed standard states they should be;
“Extremely clever, sociable and joyful. Easily trained. Quick to learn unusual or special tasks. Active, a little comical at times. Can attempt to outsmart their owners if undisciplined. Friendly though obviously loyal to own family. Non Aggressive.”
They NEED training. Training is really for you their owner – it is easier for you to learn to understand the dogs language, needs and how their pack structure works that it is for them to learn our language and social structure.
Whilst Labradoodles tend not to exhibit aggression towards people or other dogs every trainer will stress the importance of exposing your dog to as many new experiences, different people (loud/quiet/friendly singularly and in groups) and as many dogs and other animals as possible in a supervised manner. A little effort early is rewarded tenfold.
Nothing makes us happier than knowing our dogs are included in family outings, welcome in the house and taken on walks, but unless they are trained and well behaved in the house, in the car and on the lead then it follows that you would not want to have them with you nor will they be welcome at your friends and families homes. They are like an intelligent child that is not challenged at school – they get into mischief (usually through rearranging the landscape of your back garden or taking the alpha role in your family if no one else is willing to fill it).
We periodically contact our previous puppy families to check up on their health, temperament and seek general feedback. Those families that are the happiest with their dogs are those that went to the effort to correctly train and socialise them early on, in fact they think they have a one in a million dog. Conversely those families that report behavioural issues such as jumping, mouthing, house breaking concerns, not coming when called, bowling over owners by running out the door before them (and the list goes on) are to date without a single exception those families that have done very little/if any training with their dogs and subsequently have created a rod for their own backs which requires more effort in the long run to overcome.
Labradoodles on the whole behave incredibly well despite the lack of understanding of correct training and socialisation by many of their owners, however the difference between a wonder dog, a good dog and an annoying dog is YOU. ALL DOGS NEED TRAINING, in fact they thrive upon it. Fortunately Labradoodles learn very quickly but conversely in the same five minutes it takes to teach a puppy to sit you can also teach them a bad habit and most families did not even know they were doing it.
If you are not going to train your puppy, then please buy one off another breeder or better yet decide upon another breed and ruin their reputation (smile).
The proposed breed standard states they should be;
“Extremely clever, sociable and joyful. Easily trained. Quick to learn unusual or special tasks. Active, a little comical at times. Can attempt to outsmart their owners if undisciplined. Friendly though obviously loyal to own family. Non Aggressive.”
They NEED training. Training is really for you their owner – it is easier for you to learn to understand the dogs language, needs and how their pack structure works that it is for them to learn our language and social structure.
Whilst Labradoodles tend not to exhibit aggression towards people or other dogs every trainer will stress the importance of exposing your dog to as many new experiences, different people (loud/quiet/friendly singularly and in groups) and as many dogs and other animals as possible in a supervised manner. A little effort early is rewarded tenfold.
Nothing makes us happier than knowing our dogs are included in family outings, welcome in the house and taken on walks, but unless they are trained and well behaved in the house, in the car and on the lead then it follows that you would not want to have them with you nor will they be welcome at your friends and families homes. They are like an intelligent child that is not challenged at school – they get into mischief (usually through rearranging the landscape of your back garden or taking the alpha role in your family if no one else is willing to fill it).
We periodically contact our previous puppy families to check up on their health, temperament and seek general feedback. Those families that are the happiest with their dogs are those that went to the effort to correctly train and socialise them early on, in fact they think they have a one in a million dog. Conversely those families that report behavioural issues such as jumping, mouthing, house breaking concerns, not coming when called, bowling over owners by running out the door before them (and the list goes on) are to date without a single exception those families that have done very little/if any training with their dogs and subsequently have created a rod for their own backs which requires more effort in the long run to overcome.
Labradoodles on the whole behave incredibly well despite the lack of understanding of correct training and socialisation by many of their owners, however the difference between a wonder dog, a good dog and an annoying dog is YOU. ALL DOGS NEED TRAINING, in fact they thrive upon it. Fortunately Labradoodles learn very quickly but conversely in the same five minutes it takes to teach a puppy to sit you can also teach them a bad habit and most families did not even know they were doing it.
If you are not going to train your puppy, then please buy one off another breeder or better yet decide upon another breed and ruin their reputation (smile).
Non shedding? Grooming?
I have never met a Labradoodle yet who I would technically describe as completely non shedding (and I have met a fair few) – However shedding depends upon your world view somewhat. If you have previously owned or lived with a Labrador for instance then you would know that every morning when you let your dog out the laundry door that you would need to get a vacuum cleaner to pick up all the hair on the floor from where they had slept overnight. If your experience with a previous dog was with breeds such as Labradors, German Shepherds etc then yes you would likely consider the average Labradoodle non-shed. We however prefer the term low shed.
Genetics is a complicated thing and I am unable to tell you at 6 weeks of age when you select your puppy with certainty what your dogs coat will be like at 1, 2 or even 4 years of age. Experience however does give me an edge and I can make what subsequently turn out to be quite accurate predictions, but it is an art and not a science.
Labradoodles have a coat shift from their puppy coat to their adult coat approx between 10-14 months of age. This moult begins as matting under the collar or on the rump and if not managed through daily brushing or by clipping your dogs coat short, can literally turn into felt when your dog gets wet and make your dog very uncomfortable and require an extreme haircut by the groomers. Please get you puppy clipped between 6-10 months to make the puppy coat shift easier.
So does a Labradoodles hair shed all over the house? No – like a poodles most of their shed hair remains in their coat, and while that may be great for the appearance of your living space, regular grooming is required to remove hair shed before it becomes tangled and matted.
In closing we find that Labradoodles typically need an all over clip two to three times a year and a fortnightly brush for good measure. We bath our dog approximately monthly, more often if he has rolled in something that precludes us from wanting to hug him (smile).
Genetics is a complicated thing and I am unable to tell you at 6 weeks of age when you select your puppy with certainty what your dogs coat will be like at 1, 2 or even 4 years of age. Experience however does give me an edge and I can make what subsequently turn out to be quite accurate predictions, but it is an art and not a science.
Labradoodles have a coat shift from their puppy coat to their adult coat approx between 10-14 months of age. This moult begins as matting under the collar or on the rump and if not managed through daily brushing or by clipping your dogs coat short, can literally turn into felt when your dog gets wet and make your dog very uncomfortable and require an extreme haircut by the groomers. Please get you puppy clipped between 6-10 months to make the puppy coat shift easier.
So does a Labradoodles hair shed all over the house? No – like a poodles most of their shed hair remains in their coat, and while that may be great for the appearance of your living space, regular grooming is required to remove hair shed before it becomes tangled and matted.
In closing we find that Labradoodles typically need an all over clip two to three times a year and a fortnightly brush for good measure. We bath our dog approximately monthly, more often if he has rolled in something that precludes us from wanting to hug him (smile).
Sizes?
The proposed breed standard that applies globally. Sizing is as follows;
Miniature 14-16 inches (not over 17 inches), this is 35cm to 42cm, weight typically 7kg to 13kg.
Medium 17-20 inches (not over 21), 43cm to 52cm, weight range 13kg to 20kg.
Standard 21-24 inches (not over 25), 53cm to 63cm, weight range 23kg to 30kg.
All heights are measured at the wither which is the top of the front shoulders directly over the front feet, ie just at the base of the neck. We don’t breed standard’s – we focus on miniature through to medium sizes, they are robust enough to play ball with the kids yet small enough to pick up and put on the outdoor table for grooming.
Miniature 14-16 inches (not over 17 inches), this is 35cm to 42cm, weight typically 7kg to 13kg.
Medium 17-20 inches (not over 21), 43cm to 52cm, weight range 13kg to 20kg.
Standard 21-24 inches (not over 25), 53cm to 63cm, weight range 23kg to 30kg.
All heights are measured at the wither which is the top of the front shoulders directly over the front feet, ie just at the base of the neck. We don’t breed standard’s – we focus on miniature through to medium sizes, they are robust enough to play ball with the kids yet small enough to pick up and put on the outdoor table for grooming.
Interstate flight costs?
Less than most people spend at the pet store before their puppy arrives (smile).
Seriously though - approximately $350 to Melbourne, Sydney and Adelaide. This includes combined transport to airport, airline approved crate (to keep) and air freight.
Due to Qantas now requiring puppies to be over 12 weeks of age before they will transport them (and us believing that this means you will miss out on most of the critical bonding period with your new addition), we will only transport puppies to areas that are serviced by Virgin. Bear in mind that not all flights have heated cargo holds suitable for pets and you may need to travel to a larger regional centre and with Covid - flights can be cancelled with very short notice.
Seriously though - approximately $350 to Melbourne, Sydney and Adelaide. This includes combined transport to airport, airline approved crate (to keep) and air freight.
Due to Qantas now requiring puppies to be over 12 weeks of age before they will transport them (and us believing that this means you will miss out on most of the critical bonding period with your new addition), we will only transport puppies to areas that are serviced by Virgin. Bear in mind that not all flights have heated cargo holds suitable for pets and you may need to travel to a larger regional centre and with Covid - flights can be cancelled with very short notice.
When can we pick up our puppy?
Puppies may go home at 8 weeks of age. Many studies indicate that any earlier and they are missing out on important developmental socialisation with their litter mates, too much later and they do not bond as readily with their new family. Because of the importance of bonding with you, I do not hold puppies for you until you get back from your holiday. If you are not ready for your puppy then enjoy your holiday and apply for a puppy when it suits (smile).
Can we visit?
Yes and No. That makes sense doesn’t it (smile) Only one dog actually lives with us “Neo/Tallai Trilogy”. The remainder have been placed in guardian homes at 8 weeks of age, I retain the breeding rights for a few litters and then they are de-sexed and carry on their normal life in their normal environment.
Whilst my guardian families are happy to put up with me, they may find twenty odd visits on a weekend by people who get lost on the drive and arrive hours late, decide not to come and don’t inform you, or who simply had some time to kill on Sunday afternoon and thought it would be fun to go look at Labradoodles a bit intrusive – I know my family did!
SO….. I try to have regular get togethers in a local park on the Gold Coast. Please note though that not all the dogs are always there. Please email me via the contact us page on the website, to go on the list to be informed of the next get together. It is a good opportunity to meet our dogs, meet our guardian families, see the dogs interact together in a non structured environment and get some unbiased information from the families that live with the dogs.
Whilst my guardian families are happy to put up with me, they may find twenty odd visits on a weekend by people who get lost on the drive and arrive hours late, decide not to come and don’t inform you, or who simply had some time to kill on Sunday afternoon and thought it would be fun to go look at Labradoodles a bit intrusive – I know my family did!
SO….. I try to have regular get togethers in a local park on the Gold Coast. Please note though that not all the dogs are always there. Please email me via the contact us page on the website, to go on the list to be informed of the next get together. It is a good opportunity to meet our dogs, meet our guardian families, see the dogs interact together in a non structured environment and get some unbiased information from the families that live with the dogs.
Visiting our puppy?
If you have purchased a puppy then you are welcome to come when pup is 8 weeks old to collect your puppy and meet us and not before. (WHY! prior to 6 weeks the puppies have not been vaccinated and they can easily pick up nasty’s from visitors and get sick.
Their 6th week is spent convalescing from being microchipped and vaccinated.
Their 7th week weekdays/weekend is left open for our Guardian Families to visit them, usually this including a visit from their real mummy to play games with and now days (more than 13 years of breeding on) it’s common for Grandparent and Great Grandparents Guardian Families to visit for cuddles/photos which is good socialising for the pups as well.
I will of course have posted photos of them growing up on the internet and sent out some update emails to the waiting families.
Their 6th week is spent convalescing from being microchipped and vaccinated.
Their 7th week weekdays/weekend is left open for our Guardian Families to visit them, usually this including a visit from their real mummy to play games with and now days (more than 13 years of breeding on) it’s common for Grandparent and Great Grandparents Guardian Families to visit for cuddles/photos which is good socialising for the pups as well.
I will of course have posted photos of them growing up on the internet and sent out some update emails to the waiting families.
Exercise? We work? Yard size?
You do not do any breed of dog a favour by leaving them in the backyard to self exercise.
Labradoodles are active dogs though not at Border Collie levels (smile), they also tend to have what we term an extended puppyhood. LIKE ALL BREEDS OF DOGS THEY NEED REGULAR EXERCISE. Walks not only provide exercise, but they also provide mental stimulation in the form of interaction with other people and animals along with new sights and smells. Putting the dog in the car and going to the local park every 2nd Saturday is not adequate, nor is simply letting the kids throw a ball around the backyard for 5 minutes in the afternoon a few times a week.
So in light of the above then it follows that yard size is not really all that important. If I put you in solitary confinement in any size yard without a phone, book, computer, knitting or contact with others I don’t think it would take very long for you to develop problems with both your physical and mental wellbeing (prisons and the military use it as a form of punishment after all)
The majority of our puppies families work - their dogs are fine. A few send the dogs off to doggy day care a couple of times a week and report a tired out and happy dog at the end of the day when they collect them. Others leave a “Kong” with some food in it that the dogs need to work to get out which takes up some of their day. You can freeze up a meaty lamb bone for them to chew on whilst it defrosts one day a week. Provided you take them for a regular walk and tire them out and include them in the family life in the evening, together with regular short training exercises they cope very well. Watch any of the current crop of TV dog training shows and you will notice that separation anxiety is more often than not the result of inappropriate behaviour, training and handling by the owners.
Dogs like many animals have an active period in the morning then again later in the afternoon/early evening, they sleep more than us and will generally lounge around throughout much of the day.
So it is not whether you are at home all day (yet ignore the dog) or at work all day, rather it is more about whether you have a routine that allows you time to give your new addition the exercise and mental stimulation they require to ensure their wellbeing. Consider this carefully, as good intentions are rarely good enough.
Labradoodles are active dogs though not at Border Collie levels (smile), they also tend to have what we term an extended puppyhood. LIKE ALL BREEDS OF DOGS THEY NEED REGULAR EXERCISE. Walks not only provide exercise, but they also provide mental stimulation in the form of interaction with other people and animals along with new sights and smells. Putting the dog in the car and going to the local park every 2nd Saturday is not adequate, nor is simply letting the kids throw a ball around the backyard for 5 minutes in the afternoon a few times a week.
So in light of the above then it follows that yard size is not really all that important. If I put you in solitary confinement in any size yard without a phone, book, computer, knitting or contact with others I don’t think it would take very long for you to develop problems with both your physical and mental wellbeing (prisons and the military use it as a form of punishment after all)
The majority of our puppies families work - their dogs are fine. A few send the dogs off to doggy day care a couple of times a week and report a tired out and happy dog at the end of the day when they collect them. Others leave a “Kong” with some food in it that the dogs need to work to get out which takes up some of their day. You can freeze up a meaty lamb bone for them to chew on whilst it defrosts one day a week. Provided you take them for a regular walk and tire them out and include them in the family life in the evening, together with regular short training exercises they cope very well. Watch any of the current crop of TV dog training shows and you will notice that separation anxiety is more often than not the result of inappropriate behaviour, training and handling by the owners.
Dogs like many animals have an active period in the morning then again later in the afternoon/early evening, they sleep more than us and will generally lounge around throughout much of the day.
So it is not whether you are at home all day (yet ignore the dog) or at work all day, rather it is more about whether you have a routine that allows you time to give your new addition the exercise and mental stimulation they require to ensure their wellbeing. Consider this carefully, as good intentions are rarely good enough.